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Gibraltar |
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A model of the Rock of Gibraltar in the Arrivals Hall at the port in Gibraltar |
The Rock of Gibraltar is
one of the so called Pillars of Hercules, named after Hercules who was said to
have dug out the entry to the Atlantic Ocean
there. Gibraltar has one of the highest
population densities in the world – about 11,100 people per square mile. It has a total population of about 30,000
residents – and most of them drive their cars on the few miles of road in the
territory.
Parking and traffic congestion
is a major issue for this small place! Due to it’s land connection with the Spanish Peninsula,
the cars drive on the right side of the road unlike most British
Commonwealth countries and territory where the driving is on the
left.
On Wednesday morning of
November 23rd, we arrived in Gibraltar;
the weather was brisk but sunny and bright.
One surprise for visitors
from North America is that the Rock of Gibraltar’s most familiar face, which we
are familiar with from the logo of the Prudential Insurance Company's advertisements - faces Spain! For us, the Rock looks quite different when
arriving or departing by ship!
That was then…
On my first visit to
Gibraltar I took a morning tour that covered most of the non-historic points of
interest of Gibraltar; through the congestion of the city, up the rock to see
several historic gun emplacements, the various neighborhoods and government
buildings and dockyards, the old British Naval Hospital that now housed the population
of the Barbary Apes, a visit to the cavern inside the great chunk of limestone
comprising the Rock, and to the Great Europe Point to see across the Straights
of Gibraltar to Morocco and North Africa.
We stopped to view the lighthouse at that southernmost point of Europe
and looked back to see the highest point on the Rock and the Mosque of Ibrahim
al Ibrahim gifted to the Islamic residents of Gibraltar by King Fahd of Saudi
Arabia.
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In the early days, massive cannons (see below) were hauled up the steep sides of the Rock using block and tackle anchored to rings anchored like these |
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Traveler Al on The Rock of Gibraltar - 2009 |
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The shadow of the Rock of Gibraltar gives a good idea of the shape of The Rock |
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The Gibraltar Barbary Apes are actually Europe's only species of macaque monkeys. Nothing is safe from their grasping hands. They love to grab cameras, glasses and things from your pockets. |
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Momma and Papa |
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Baby |
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A large auditorium has been added in a natural cavern inside The Rock |
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Auditorium inside a natural cavern inside the Rock of Gibraltar |
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Looking upwards to the high point of The Rock from The Great Point of Europe |
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The Mosque of Ibrihim al Ibrahim, a gift to the Moslems of Gibraltar by King Fahd of Saudi Arabia |
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The Great Point of Europe lighthouse at the most southern point of Europe. This view faces the Mediterranean Ocean |
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View to the West out the Strait of Gibraltar towards the Atlantic Ocean. North Africa on the left and Europe on the right. The Strait is 36 miles long and 8 miles wide at its narrowest place. |
Information and photos from space of the Strait of Gibraltar - Click here and scroll down to the middle of the page.
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A Moorish fort, one of the last places captured by Ferdinand & Isabella when the Moors were driven out of Europe. |
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A Gibraltar "Bobby" policeman. He told me that there was not much to do when you live in Gibraltar. |
That afternoon I took the
tour into the World War II tunnels inside the Rock of Gibraltar. There are more than 30 miles of acknowledged
tunnels inside the Rock.
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Entrance to the WW2 Tunnels inside Gibraltar |
I would not be surprised
if there were many more secret tunnels. The
Rock still has highly classified areas that no one is allowed to enter. It is
still used for signals intelligence work and most likely is a base station for
long range communication with submarines and a listening post for submarines
transiting in and out of the Mediterranean
Ocean.
On my first visit to the
Rock of Gibraltar, one of the gentlemen sitting at my dinner table who was from
a Scandinavian country was an enthusiastic hiker. He did not take any guided Gibraltar
tours, preferring to see if he could hike up the roads and then go to the top
of the Rock. He was intercepted and asked
to leave the area immediately by military personnel once he was up on the
higher points of the Rock.
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Exhibits area about the construction of the tunnels. |
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Tunnel dormitory for 300 men During WW2. This is where the men who assembled airplanes from their shipping crates slept. |
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Some of the tunnels were
walled off as dormitories where units up to 300 strong were billeted during the
War. Other rooms in the tunnels were
workshops where aircraft were uncrated and reassembled for use in the war.
These aircraft escorted convoys and did anti submarine patrols from Gibraltar
as well as protecting Gibraltar itself.
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Sign inside the tunnels. |
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Inside the WW2 Tunnels in the Rock of Gibraltar |
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Looking straight up a crack that goes completely through the entire Rock of Gibraltar |
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Most of the tunnels looks something like this |
Gibraltar and Britain were
fortunate that during WWII Generalissimo Franco was reluctant to allow the
Italian or the German Armies to operate on Spanish soil. This caused the
failure of the German plan to invade and conquer Gibraltar
under their plans for Operation Felix.
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Tunnel entry to a gun emplacement facing Spain that is located high up on The Rock. |
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Tour group on Jock's Balcony |
There is one gun
emplacement located high up over the airstrip facing Spain called Jock’s Balcony. When
you enter the small tunnel to enter the emplacement you must wiggle past a
baffle of 3 foot thick, solid concrete blocks that served as blast protection
in case of a direct hit. Looking up the
sheer wall of the Rock from the emplacement that is really just an enlarged
ledge on the face of a tall cliff makes you very giddy. The view of the runway for Gibraltar’s
airport is perfect.
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Looking straight up from Jock's Balcony on The Rock |
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Looking north towards Spain from Jock's Balcony gun emplacement - Notice the road that crosses the airport's runway |
One oddity about the
airport at Gibraltar is that the runway has barriers on each side where the
only road into and out of Spain
crosses the runway. When airplanes are
due to take off or land, the road barriers are closed. An underpass and new road surface is being constructed to eliminate this situation at Gibraltar's airport. Just a few blocks
further on towards Spain
is the Spanish border control point.
Gibraltar only has 3/4ths
of a mile of border with Spain. At various times, when there is disagreement
about one issue or another, Spain
will close the border to all traffic.
Back in the 1960’s Spain
closed the border for several years.
Britain won Gibraltar
during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1704. Their possession was
finalized in the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 which granted Britain Gibraltar “in
perpetuity”. Spain
has had problems with Britain
over Gibraltar several times.
I went up to the highest
deck of the Constellation to watch our departure from Gibraltar
and our passage up the Strait of Gibraltar.
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Traveler Al as the Constellation heads away from Gibraltar to the Straits of Gibraltar. Taken November, 2011 |
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Full moon over the Rock of Gibraltar - 2009 |
We were passing North Africa on the port side (the left side of the ship
as you face the bow) and the last bit of Europe
to starboard (the right side of the ship as you face the bow of the ship). We were heading directly into the setting sun
as we left the Mediterranean Ocean to enter the Atlantic.
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North Africa to the left, the Constellation leaves the Strait of Gibraltar. |
It has been an interesting
3 weeks.
We kept following the footsteps
of the Apostle Paul. We followed the various retreats of the Knights
Hospitaller of St. John as they left Jerusalem,
to Acre (Acco), to Rhodes and to Malta.
We were constantly reminded of the tremendous
influence that the rise of Islam had on the development of world history as it
blocked access to the Eastern Mediterranean ocean and to the important trade
routes with Asia.
We kept running into places that Napoleon
invaded and influenced during these past weeks.
Now we are heading out into the open Atlantic on our way to Florida with a planned stop at Tenerife’ in the Canary Islands.
Next – Tenerife in
the Canary Islands, a week of sea days
and a photo tour of the Constellation
Please give me photo credits if you use or share my photos for non-commercial use.
I use a Canon G-11 digital camera on a mono pod - usually without flash
Please contact me at traveleral@aol.com should you need to use my photos commercially. Larger, digital files of my photos are available.
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Your comments and criticisms are my reward for the effort to do this blog – they are appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to read about my travels.
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